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我们想做最酷的事 重走红军长征路
http://www.sina.com.cn 2002/11/19 10:00  北京青年报

  Andrew McEwen and Edmund Jocelyn set off on October 16 from Yudu in Jiangxi province to retrace the route of the Long March. Their journey - entirely on foot - will cover 6,000 miles, eight provinces, two autonomous regions and will take 368 days. This is the first of a regular series of columns from the frontline of the new Long March. To follow their progress, check out .

  A lot of people have asked us why we decided to do the new Long March. It's a simple enough question. It deserves a simple answer. What follows is not that simple.

  Today in a village in northern Guangdong, we met a travelling businessman buying ornamental rocks for the Beijing Olympic Village. He had bought and sold one rock that weighed 70 tonnes.

  Yesterday, after walking 33 kilometres over two and half mountains, we descendedsintosa mining town at dusk. We were the first foreigners anyone there could recall seeing. The entire town - except for two hairdressing salons - was dark by 11 on Saturday night.

  A week ago, we discovered a new term, baoyu, whilst stranded in a Jiangxi county town in a torrential downpour, our third consecutive day of constant rain.

  Ten days ago, we sat in a cosy mudbrick house drinking tea with asgroupsof elderly Jiangxi women. A younger woman spent more than 20 minutes repairing a red plastic ladle saucepan with strips of melted blue plastic using a homemade gasoline torch. Asked if she would agree to a photo, she said "no". And stopped fixing it.

  Almost two weeks ago, we learned residents of one Jiangxi county are told that raising children is not as useful as growing oranges.

  Almost three weeks ago, we met a man in Jiangxi carrying 60 jin of rice on a shoulder pole. He showed us around his property,swhereswe learned a little Red Army folklore.

  On the second day, we met a very, very old man who had joined the Reds in '34. But unable to break through the blockade at Xinfeng, he had returned home to tend the fields. Today, almost deaf, this "short marcher" lives in a small house in a small village in Li Cun. Imagine, said a Qingdao friend, if that old man had broken through the blockade back in '34: Today, instead of sitting talking to two big-noses in an anonymous village, he might be a four-star general plotting political strategy at a party congress in Beijing.

  "Or long dead," said Ed.

  On the first day, local Yudu TV and newspapers show up to film our departure. But it's very low-key as our Beijing friends tag along for the day. Students on their way to a Yudu primary school form a fun escort. A Jiangnan City Daily photographer says he overheard one of the children saying, "I wish I had studied English harder - then I could talk to them."

  Travelling through Jiangxi and now Guangdong, we are amazed by how many people have apparently seen us on TV or in the newspapers. From this, Ed has calculated that perhaps tens of millions of people we will never meet already know all about us. Most of them are probably asking the same question: Why are two foreigners doing a new Long March?

  More than two years ago, we sat on the pavement of a bridge in Congjiang, Guizhou, with two bottles of beer under a starry sky. Passing pedestrians paused in astonishment. Many mustered a "hullo". Ed turned to Andy and said, "You know what would be really cool?"

我们想做最酷的事 重走红军长征路

  两个英国人,安德鲁-麦克尤恩(安迪)和埃德蒙-乔斯林(埃德),于今年10月16日从江西省的于都出发,开始重走当年红军长征的路线,他们此行全部靠双脚,行程6000英里(约2万里),将穿越8个省与两个自治区,预计368天走完。本文是他们长征途中电邮过来的第一篇文章,若想跟踪他们的行程,可上网站:www.longmarch2002.com

  很多朋友都问过我们为什么要重走长征路,这是个极简单的问题,理应有极简单的回答,但下面所说的事可不简单。

  今天,在广东北部的一个农村,我们见到了一个出来采购的商人,他正为北京奥运村买装饰用的石头,他已经买了一块重达70吨的大石头并且出了手。

  昨天,在走过两座半的山路共计33公里后,我们往下走,黄昏时来到一个矿区,那儿的人凡是记得往事的,我俩都是他们第一次见到的老外。在星期六晚11点的时候,整个镇子除了两个理发馆之外就一片漆黑了。

  一周前,我们学会了一个新词--暴雨,那时我们被困在江西的一个县城,滂沱大雨倾盆而至,那是我们赶上连续下雨的第三天。

  十天前,我们坐在一间温暖舒适的土坯小屋里,和几个上岁数的江西妇女一起喝茶,一位年纪轻点儿的妇女用自制的煤油灯烤一块蓝塑料,用融化的塑料条修补一个勺形的红塑料汤盆,一干就是20多分钟。当我们问她能否拍个照时,她说“不”,接着就停下不补了。

  约两周前,我们听说江西一个县的人们被告知养孩子不如种橘子。

  约三周前,在江西我们遇到一个人用扁担挑着60斤大米,他带我们看了他的家产,在那儿我们了解到有关红军的一个小故事。

  第二天,我们见到了一个很老很老的人,他是1934年参加红军的,但由于没能在新丰突围出去,便回家种地了。如今,这位几乎已经聋了的“短征者”住在黎村镇一个小村的小屋里。“设想一下”,同行的一位青岛朋友说,“如果这位老人在1934年突破了重围,那今天就不会坐在这无名村子里和两个大鼻子聊天,而可能成为一个四星将军,正在北京召开的十六大上筹划着大政方针呢。”

  “那也说不定早就牺牲了。”埃德说。

  在我们出发的第一天,于都地方电视台和报纸的记者都来为我们的启程摄像拍照。但那天我们的对外姿态很低调,来自北京的朋友们跟着我们,那些走在上学路上的于都小学的学生成了有趣的陪同,《江南城市报》的一位摄影记者说他听到一个孩子说:“我以前要是努力学英语就好了,现在就能跟他们说话了。”

  我们走过了江西,现在正走在广东地界,有那么多人从电视和报纸上看到了我们,这真让我们惊奇。埃德算了一下,大概有上千万素不相识的人已经了解了我们的一切。他们中的大多数人恐怕会问同一个问题:为什么这两个老外要重走长征路?

  那是两年多之前,在一个繁星满天的夜晚,带着两瓶啤酒,我俩坐在贵州省从江一座桥的人行道上。路过的行人停下来看我们,一脸的惊愕,很多人鼓起勇气说“哈罗”。埃德转过头对安迪说:“你可知道什么是酷毙了的事?”




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