AUDIENCES at Wong Kar-Wai's popular film, "In the Mood for Love", will never forget the beautiful qipaos (better known as cheongsam, the Mandarin gown) worn by the star.

　　In the film - an ambiguous love story set in the 1960s in Hong Kong between two Shanghainese persons - the elegant, charming qipao expresses a range of feelings - it seems to be the soul of old Shanghai.

　　The film has sparked a revival of interest in the qipao. Stores are selling more qipaos, trendy people are holding qipao parties and the dress is the star of one fashion show after another. It seems no woman can resist the classic pattern, the exquisite cut, the soft fabrics and the good taste embodied in qipao.

　　Zhang Jianming, 39, an antique collector who once had nothing to do with the fashion business, has suddenly become famous for his collection of hundreds of old qipaos, most from the 1930s, the so called "golden era".

　　Collection item

　　When Zhang is sitting in the Old Shanghai Teahouse, which he opened in 1999, he can feel he is in another era. The sculptured windows are old, the floor is paved according to the old style, the record player has pop songs of the 1930s and the shelves are lined with books and photographs of old Shanghai.

　　The most attractive display in the teahouse is the several qipaos set out on a table. After more than 60 years, they still retain their fresh colours and look even more stylish than the copies made today. Only some wear-and-tear at the collar shows they used to belong to grandmas.

　　"After admiring these dresses, many people can see why Shanghai women looked so fashionable in the 1930s," Zhang said.

　　He lifted a long black qipao and pointed to the black lace in the dress. "See, a qipao with a see-through style is so sexy even today. I guess a certain Shanghai woman may wear it as an evening gown," Zhang said with a smile.

　　Zhang has converted an old cupboard in the teahouse to hold a selection of embroidered, silk, cotton and nylon dresses. But they are just a small part of his collection. Zhang has a lot more at home.

　　Every year, after the rainy season, Zhang and his family hang all the old qipaos out in the sun to prevent their going mouldy.

　　"It is a big task and makes a beautiful sight which always attracts my neighbours' eyes," he said.

　　One can imagine hundreds of colourful qipaos waving and fluttering in the sunshine - a lovely scene.

　　Slimmer, shorter

　　After collecting qipaos for more than 10 years, Zhang has been able to draw some conclusions about the Shanghai of the past. Firstly, he feels that the women of the 1930s were slimmer than women of today, even those working hard on their diets.

　　"According to the sizes of the old qipaos, most women in the 1930s weren't taller than 160 centimetres and they were so slim," Zhang said. "It is difficult for a modern woman to try them on because they are too tight."

　　Secondly, Shanghai, was called the Paris of the East at that time and was really the fashion centre of the country. With every tiny style change, such as the collar going from high to low to high again, the sleeves from wide to narrow to sleeveless, the side slits from right to middle, and also the colours, the fabrics and the silhouette, Shanghai women always led the country.

　　"And still today, Shanghai tailors can always ask the highest price when making clothes for women in Hong Kong, because they think Shanghai tailors are of the highest quality and they know the trend best," Zhang said.

　　Man of interests

　　Zhang started being a collector more than 20 years ago. He started with old books, maps and photos - anything he found interesting, he would collect. Gradually, Zhang got a reputation as a collector and many people started sending antiques to him.

　　Zhang's collection is not of high value, according to insiders. Most of the items he has were produced in the early 20th century.

　　"It is just my interest to collect beautiful things because 'Shanghai Style' is so charming and contains different cultural elements. It is difficult for us to make a clear understanding because it is too complicated," he said.

　　"Actually, the lifestyle at that time was more exquisite and elegant. Look, all the dresses are handmade, such exquisite work can't be seen now," he said.

　　Zhang said his teahouse is too small to exhibit all his collection. As his next step, he plans to look for a place big enough to show favourites from his collection.

　　"I hope to put them in a way that can be enjoyed and touched by ordinary people. Not like those treasure antiques in the museum that are isolated from people," he said. He plans to name it the Modern Life Museum.

　　Zhang welcomes people who want to visit the Old Shanghai Teahouse and see his qipaos.