In keeping with the climate of comparative restraint, Versace showed a pared-down collection of airy goddess gowns in an exhibition at the Ritz hotel in Paris, July 6.

　　Known for its million-pound catwalk extravaganzas, the label has fuelled speculation about its financial health by deciding not to stage a couture show in Paris for two seasons in a row.

　　Versace posted a loss in 2002 and has embarked on a three-year turnaround plan.

　　Although its display lacked the pizzazz of a traditional catwalk display, it gave guests a rare opportunity to peer over the handmade creations close up.

　　A Nile blue plunged-neck chiffon dress with bead embroidery and sleeves ribbed with gold seemed fit for Cleopatra. A quartz pink chiffon dress was draped like a Roman toga.

　　Meanwhile, a pearl grey column dripping with silk fringes was just the ticket for stars like Kate Hudson and Catherine Zeta-Jones, who both wore Versace to this year's Oscars.

　　The biggest celebrity at this show, however, was the flaxen-haired Donatella Versace, who took over the label following the murder of her brother Gianni in 1997.

　　But even she was in subdued mood, signing autographs for fans and declining to speak with reporters.