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In Mother Nature's embrace
http://www.sina.com.cn 2003/10/24 11:02  上海英文星报

  By Xiao Chen

  WATERFALLS, rapids, lush primeval forests, caves, mountains, ethnic minorities and the world's largest karst terrain - economically Guizhou Province may be one of the least attractive in China but its tourism resources surely make it one of the richest and most fascinating.

  This was proven during my recent trip to the Libo Zhangjiang Scenic Zone, one of the eight State scenic zones in the province.

  Located at the southeastern edge of Southwest China's Guizhou Province and about 310km from the provincial capital Guiyang, Libo Zhangjiang is known for its numerous attractions, such as the Xiao Qikong (Seven Small Arches), Da Qikong (Seven Big Arches) and Shuichun River sites.

  Xiao Qikong

  Xiao Qikong, hidden among mountain valleys, is widely considered the most beautiful.

  After a four-hour drive from Guiyang, most of us were a bit tired and eager to flex our numbed muscles, so a walk along the Xiangshui River seemed to be the perfect therapy. In a section about 3km long, some 68 roaring waterfalls along with two-dozen quiet and deep ponds greet us along the way.

  The tour guide, a local woman in her 20s, thinks we should still enjoy all these scenes from our van, but who wants to be in a car and miss such a close embrace from Mother Nature. In this stunning setting, city folks are like birds freed from a cage after a long confinement, we climb down to the river, touch the cool and crystal clear water and let the splashing spray moisten our faces.

  Some deserted old wooden houses, said to be previously inhabited by ethic minority people, still stand along the river banks. Since the area was designated a scenic zone a few years ago, residents have been moved out insgroupsto "protect" the zone. But in fact without inhabitants, this place seems to be lacking something - the very human beings that have kept the harmony between nature and man for many centuries.

  The biggest reward along the way is the Laya Waterfall. Like a poetic Chinese ink painting, it's mighty and lifelike and unlike any waterfall I have ever seen before.

  Not far from the Xiangshui River, we were ledsintosa mysterious water forest.

  Here, various bushes and trees root themselves on the riverbed under the rocks. Sunshine that penetratessintosthe forest reveals a splendid refraction of the light. There is total harmony between water, stones and plants and we are like Alice in a Wonderland.

  Some of us bare our feet to wade through shallow water and the feel is superb.

  If you want to reach the famous Xiao Qikong Bridge (Seven Small Arches Bridge), you'd better take a hike through the primeval forest instead of walking on the newly built highway.

  Weird vines some 15 metres long hang down from the tree tops. Huge trees grow directly from the barren rocky mountains, showing most of their roots.

  While we were enjoying swinging and clinging on the vines, we heard a scream from our guide. She had just seen a sturdy snake creeping by and she was scared - her face looking pale.

  After 30 minutes hiking, Xiao Qikong Bridge appeared like an antique art piece. The moss that covered the arches shows the history of the bridge, built in 1835 during the reign of Emperor Daoguang. Here the water is serene and green, a view of the surroundings from the bridge is mesmerizing.

  Da Qikong

  Compared with the Xiao Qikong area, the Da Qikong scenic site is a much larger art work created by Mother Nature.

  In the far distance, you can already see the gigantic and awesome Tiansheng Qiao (Nature-made Bridge), also nicknamed the "Oriental Arc de Triomphe".

  About 100 metres high and 100 metres wide, the "bridge" dwarfs those on Shanghai's Huangpu River. Stalactites hang down like flowers and caves hide behind bushes. Please don't shout; the guide says rocks might fall from the cliffs. That's why the area is also known as "terror valley."

  I didn't see many birds, but thick and fresh discharge from bats and other flying creatures cover much of the ground.

  The torrent in this curve of the river is like a wild horse without bridle, running downwards with white foams. It is a good place for a rest - sit, smoke or drink and think and rethink - the worries in life all carried away by the torrent.

  A few minutes walk away is the Yaofeng (Monster Wind) Cave, with only a fraction of the 3km cave being paved. Again, water surges from the dark cave under the myriads of mountains.

  Shuichun River

  The Shuichun River valley on the upper reaches of the Zhangjiang River is a picturesque valley that provides ideal rapids for thrilling but safe rafting.

  We didn't try the rafting, but this regret might be another motive that will take us back to this beautiful landscape.




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