Celebrations for the Chinese lunar New Year are fraught with symbolism: Oranges represent gold, the color red brings luck, flowering plants mean abundance. But nowhere is the symbolism greater and more meaningful than those on the dinner table.

　　Two auspiciously named treats, niangao (new year's cake) and chunjuan (spring roll) are must-have dishes on the festival, known in China as Spring Festival. The popularity of these dishes stems from their auspicious connotations: niangao is a homonym for ``a better new year,'' while chunjuan can mean ``the advent of spring.''

　　Niangao, which originated in southern China thousands of years ago, is made from glutinous rice flour, sliced into strips. The northern Chinese either braise or fry niangao, then dip it in sugar, while the southerners prepare it in an immense variety of ways, resulting in a dish that may be sweet, crispy or salty. Regional variations include versions from Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces, where the use of osmanthus and mint results in a uniquely fresh, delicate taste. The soft, pliant Cantonese version of niangao, made of glutinous rice powder and brown sugar, and often adorned with beans or fruit, is a popular New Year gift. Shanghainese like to stir-fry niangao with pork spareribs.

　　A symphony of color, taste and aroma, the ``paigu (sparerib) niangao'' is a typically Shanghai-style homemade snack. With its crisp golden skin and crunchy vegetable filling, chunjuan is a popular Chinese lunar New Year culinary essential. The classic spring roll filling features a mixture of shredded cabbage and scallions with julienne slices of meat, enhanced with a dipping of vinegar. Chunjuan is an easy dish for families to cook together.

　　With different people mixing, stuffing and wrapping, an evening spent making chunjuan can be great fun, and the result is delicious. Recipe for chunjuan Ingredients: 2 cups of filling, such as cooked ham, Chinese barbecued pork, raw pork (or raw chicken, cut into strips, or tiny shrimp); dried Chinese black mushrooms (soaked and cut into strips); half a cup of bamboo shoots (cut into strips); half to one cup of shredded Chinese or regular green cabbage; 2 shredded scallions; 1/4 cup of chicken broth (or vegetarian broth); a cup of mung bean sprouts; a small shredded carrot; 2 tablespoons of oyster sauce; 2 teaspoons of sugar; a teaspoon of cornstarch; a package of spring roll or egg roll wrappers (available at grocery stores or supermarkets); an egg; 4 cups of oil; plum sauce for dipping.

　　Method: * Preparing the filling 1. Heat the oil in a wok. 2. Add meat and vegetables and stir-fry for about two minutes. 3. Combine the chicken broth, oyster sauce, sugar and cornstarch. 4. Add to the wok and stir-fry until the sauce thickens. 5. Let the filling cool before making spring rolls. * Preparing the spring rolls 1. Fold the spring roll wrapper into a diamond shape, with one point facing you. 2. Place about 2 tablespoons of filling in a log shape across the bottom, about two inches (five centimeters) from the lowest corner. 3. Fold the bottom corner up over the filling and tuck it behind the filling. 4. Roll the packet up once to enclose the filling securely. 5. Moisten the three remaining corners of the wrapper with beaten egg. 6. Fold the left and right corners into the center and press down firmly to seal, forming an envelope. 7. Finish rolling up, sealing the top corner.

　　* Cooking the spring rolls 1. In a deep-fryer or wok, heat four cups of oil to 190 degrees C. 2. Deep-fry the spring rolls, a few at a time, until crisp and golden. 3. Serve the spring rolls hot, either whole or cut in thirds, with plum sauce for dipping. Note: The spring rolls may be prepared a few hours ahead of cooking. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate, ensuring they do not touch to avoid sticking together. Vegetarians can substitute more vegetables for the meat.