By Bruce Connolly

　　I was about to leave for Kunming railway station when the phone rang. "Bruce, I have a great place for you to stay when you come back to Beijing - you will like it!" Three days later when I saw the 'siheyuan' or courtyard house near Jiaodaokou I instantly fell for it. This would become my home in the city; I thought a dream had come true.

　　For many years I had been travelling around China, returning to Britain only for a few months each year. I had stayed in a variety of hotel rooms, sometimes for lengthy periods, but they were never home. Now at last I was moving into a place where I wanted to stay for eternity. Outside, the alley was full of local life and my morning exercise soon became a brisk walk around the nearby Shichahai lakes. Surrounded by history, I loved the place and was even filmed there for a short CCTV programme, 'Bruce in Beijing'.

　　A year later, briefly back in Scotland, I received a phone call "Sorry Bruce, the courtyard is changing hands. You cannot stay there but I have found a hotel room at Dongzhimen where you can stay temporarily." The lovely hutong sadly would no longer be home.

　　However the hotel, which was located in a quiet residential district, became my base for the next year. I soon realised that I was not just the only foreigner living there but also in the local area. I found friendship with the residents who quickly got to know me. The hotel staff seemed to adopt me and I was invited to their parties and also regular dinners with the managers. I became quite settled until SARS took its toll.

　　Returning to Scotland in February 2003 for what would only be a few weeks I was reluctantly forced to stay for three months as my insurance became invalidated due to the crisis. It was a time of personal sadness, as I wanted back to this city that I loved so much. Last June, happy once again, I discovered on my arrival that things were different. The hotel was very quiet, it seemed I was the only resident. Indeed it was about to close. By a stroke of good luck the telephone rang. "Bruce there is an apartment for you to rent. You will like it." "I have not seen it yet." "It has wooden floors." "Oh!"

　　A few hours later I was standing, slightly apprehensive, outside a late 1980's tower block in Chaoyang waiting to be taken up to the 9th floor. Yes, it did have wooden floors and I took my shoes off to walk through the rooms. Trying not to smile too much I thought I am going to make this my place in Beijing. I was falling in love with it even before signing the papers. Next day I moved everything from the hotel and started the process of turning it into a home.

　　I was about to experience another aspect of living in the city. The courtyard represented an older life but now my conditions would be similar to most Beijingers who reside in apartments within compounds. I was moving into their district and I would be the only foreigner in the immediate locality. I was comfortable with this because I did not want to live in an international district where people often reside only for short stays. After 17 years involvement with China I wished to feel part of a local community. It was not a totally new experience for me because in Guangzhou, for one year from 1992, I had been living and working in an educational 'danwei'.

　　Certainly life would be very different to the very private world that is the norm in a British apartment. (Motto: My home is my castle.) I was quickly introduced to the building/neighbourhood committee. With a large smile I promised to try to be a 'Model Citizen' - a promise I have tried to keep. Many older people have lived in the building for a long time and it is important to respect their desire for a quiet life. Certainly I have found that a smile and a few friendly words in Chinese quickly break down barriers. I would also have to accept that my behaviour would naturally be a topic of conversation, after all 'foreigners do strange things'!

　　The 'lift woman' quickly became important. She is the first line of enquiry if there are any problems. Recently many residents were informed that I was seen on Beijing TV evening news, filmed when visiting the city's new Space Museum. She saw me and I received a very big smile from her next day.

　　A furnished apartment in Britain usually comes complete with most domestic utensils, but not here. Many goods have to be purchased. Thankfully department stores and supermarkets make this task quite easy. Bedding was one of my first priorities - that led to some interesting looks, as it is unusual for a man to be shopping alone for such items. "Does he have any idea of design and matching colours?" Then there were pots and pans. When a friend came to see the apartment he quietly mentioned here in China I had bought a frying pan and not a wok. I now have one. Cooking is by gas but I wanted to grill some food, so I bought a nice electric grill that the lift woman thankfully told me was good. Whew! Later I purchased a microwave oven and then discovered that unlike Britain there actually is very little microwave food in the supermarkets. Many evenings back in the UK I often 'cooked' by throwing a prepared meal into the machine and five minutes later dinner was ready. Now my diet has improved with plenty of fresh vegetables. Returning recently from my native country I brought back several books on Chinese cookery.

　　Decorating helps turn a house into a home. Nice lamps add to style and pictures adorn the walls. But what about creating an interior garden? Tall bamboo plants were bought from salesmen touring the streets with bicycle carts.

　　In Britain paying household bills is mostly done through 'direct debit' payments from personal bank accounts. However China is still mostly a cash-based society with different systems for paying. The telephone rings and a recorded voice informs me it is time to pay the phone charges which I must do at a local bank or post office. Gas is charged through a prepaid IC card, but the electricity is different. A blackboard notice, in Chinese, at the building entrance tells residents when to pay. However, not reading Chinese I did not know and soon I built up a debt that was 'punished' with a 5-yuan fine, creating universal amusement. Now the lift woman brings the bill to my apartment, so I have no excuse.

　　I clean the house myself. Although many friends employ a woman for domestic work I have been used to doing these chores in Britain. However, when I returned from the supermarket carrying an ironing table there were instant smiles and comments "You do your own ironing, Bruce!" Today in China so many new tools now make jobs like cleaning windows and floors much easier.

　　I have been very impressed with the local environment. Domestic rubbish is removed daily - at home it was weekly. The local streets are spotless. Every morning teams of workers are sweeping and cleaning the area. Even as I write this on my balcony I see three workers sweeping the grass beds and pavements below.

　　Two years ago the authorities created local public gardens, planted new trees, installed recreational areas and built tiled squares where older people can perform morning exercises or evening dancing - I do not have the courage to join in. The local river whose banks are now popular with dog walkers has also been cleaned and landscaped this year.

　　In Scotland, people usually eat at home, particularly during the week. Here, life is different. Streets are lined with restaurants offering a wide variety of regional foods at economical prices. I love going to spicy hot pot and Sichuan places. Indeed, some have asked for help in producing their menus in English. The food is great and with summer arriving pavement tables are now appearing in the evenings. Spending time there enhances the feeling of being in a local community. There are also the popular 'Beijing Breakfast' kiosks that provide a convenient start to the day.

　　Although a large supermarket is close, local markets offer an incredible choice of fresh daily vegetables. Indeed, every morning at 5.00 am farmers can be seen bringing their produce in by small trucks. Eat at home or go out. So much choice.

　　I also find getting around is quite easy. From outside the gate a bus goes right to Wangfujing Street and Beijing Railway Station. I have to refuse when old ladies offer to give me a seat. With the expansion of the city's metro system it is only five minutes walk to a new station. It was quite amusing there last year when a new ticketing system was introduced - even I was caught momentarily in the tollgates.

　　There is an impression in this city that things are definitely improving. I have personally witnessed this and I have found myself happily settled here. Indeed, many days I stay locally as everything I want can now be found in my neighbourhood. There is a comforting feel of security combined with a genuine show of friendliness from the locals.

　　Returning to Britain in February I very soon advanced the date of my return for this is indeed now my home. I very much missed my life as a local in an ordinary neighbourhood and I missed my apartment with its wooden floor and the views of daily life on the street below. Indeed my first evening, sitting with a glass of wine on the balcony I kept saying "Wo shi lao Beijing ren!" "Welcome home Bruce".