If Three on The Bund is the cake, then Jean Georges' restaurant could only be described as the icing, the cherries and the chocolate sprinkles.

　　From the delicate balance between the soft interior lighting and the riverbank's infiltrating neon, to the choice, design and placement of the dining room furniture, it was apparent that interior designer Lyndon Neri was determined to follow in the footsteps of the more famous architects that have designed restaurants for Jean Georges.

　　The main event starts with an unbelievable amuse bouche which can only be described as a homage to all five senses.

　　Jean Georges' unique interpretation of a Shanghai dumpling encapsulates his genius. He inserts a generous portion of sevruga caviar into a delicate dumpling which causes an explosion of flavor.

　　This is followed by a sliver of lobster and a crunchy stick of Japanese watercress, rolled into a delicate crepe, the wonderful taste of which is almost impossible to describe.

　　And finally the simple pairing of goat cheese and watermelon results in a not previously experienced explosion of fireworks and aromas.

　　Caviar lovers would be climbing one of the highest culinary peaks when presented with one of Jean Georges' signature dishes, a poached egg topped with a smattering of mild creme fraiche on top of which lays a generous portion of fresh sevruga caviar. Not only is this appetizer visually beautiful, but the melting creme fraiche enhances the flavor of the caviar.

　　Even as lovers of any foie dish, Jean Georges' foie gras brulee -- the ``brulee'' of which is enhanced with cracked pepper brulee and that is presented with a side of berries -- is extraordinary.

　　However, this extraordinary foie gras stubbornly refuses to be married with the excellent, but misplaced creme of pistachio (that tasted more like green pea puree), and thus the latter spends a lonely, single life on the same plate.

　　It is Jean-Georges' philosophy to integrate and exploit several senses at the same time. Thus, the order, range and priority of the courses play a significant role in diner's culinary experience.

　　The harmonic combination of crab and mango leaves an unforgettable impression. On top of a cumin crisp and with a dab of buttery cream Grainy mustard, the crab meat salad is incredibly complimented by the intense juicy mango salsa. The unique integration of Asian herbs make this dish a highlight for both Eastern and Western tongues.

　　The slightly spicy sea scallops, topped with caramelized cauliflower and harmonized with a unique emulsion of capers and raisins, is impressive. This delicious emulsified sauce has a strong and intense taste and courageously flirted with, but does not dominate the spiciness of the scallops.

　　Asian fusion influences are as balanced as possible in the salad of local baby greens. Mildly steamed asparagus and Asian enoki mushrooms share a bed of fresh local baby greens, within which a truffle soy-sauce dressing and a mild hollandaise sauce duelled for attention.

　　The two dishes on our main course provided both an amazing and a somewhat run-of-the-mill interpretation of Chinese yin and yang philosophy. The broiled squab (young pigeon), with juicy and strong flavors, presented with onion compote and a tender, sauteed foie gras, is simply excellent. However, the sirloin steak with mushrooms and a soy-caramel emulsion is uninspiring and somewhat unspectacular.

　　The piece de resistance is Jean-Georges' marvelous desert selection. The desert tasting is an enjoyable and amazing experience. Up to four different deserts are artistically presented on a single plate, and providing an innovative mosaic of colors and tastes. With his crescendo of fascinating creations -- rhubarb creme brulee, red berries and basil ice cream, chocolate cake, melon soup, and buttermilk panna cotta -- Jean Georges' provides the literally sweet and unforgettable finale to an exceptional gourmet evening.

　　For a newly opened gourmet restaurant, Jean Georges' service is polite, competent and professional. Coordination and smooth teamwork will only improve when the restaurant is in full swing and has a few weeks of full-time operational experience under its belt.