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旧式服装永不过时--日本重掀和服热
http://www.sina.com.cn 2005/05/24 18:38  国际在线

  There was a time when no self-respecting twentysomething Japanese woman with a modicum of style would have been seen out and about in a kimono.

  The garment was seen as over-priced and uncomfortable, and brought to mind an outdated image of Japanese femininity, of demure women struggling to retain composure as they shuffle along in a garment that must have taken an age to put on.

  But kimonos are making a comeback in trendy parts of Tokyo, and the women wearing them are young, fashion-conscious and as comfortable in their traditional wear as they are in their jeans.

  There was a time when no self-respecting twentysomething Japanese woman with a modicum of style would have been seen out and about in a kimono.

  The garment was seen as over-priced and uncomfortable, and brought to mind an outdated image of Japanese femininity, of demure women struggling to retain composure as they shuffle along in a garment that must have taken an age to put on.

  But kimonos are making a comeback in trendy parts of Tokyo, and the women wearing them are young, fashion-conscious and as comfortable in their traditional wear as they are in their jeans.

  "They no longer think that kimonos are the preserve of older women with money to spend," said an assistant at Gallery Kawano, a second-hand kimono shop in Tokyo's chic Omotesando district. "They wear them when they go out on a date or want something a bit different for a formal occasion."

  A brand-new kimono, and the long list of accessories that goes with it, is still prohibitively expensive, costing thousands, even tens of thousands, of pounds. But a thriving market in antique cast-offs, available for as little as a few pounds, is now serving students and younger working women. Buyers mix and match their kimonos with obi belts, shoes and split-toe socks.

  Emiko Miura, a pharmacist who owns about 40 kimonos, is a longtime convert but still in her 30s. "I don't think twice about getting dressed up to go shopping or to go out for dinner with friends."

  With Tokyo's energy-sapping humidity already in the air, it will soon be time to don yukata, lighter, cooler, and much cheaper summer kimonos. Magazine shelves are heaving with advice for yukata wearers on the right mix of handbag, jewellery, boots and sunglasses.

  "I think some women are getting tired of following western culture, and want to get back to something that's not only Japanese, but wearable," said Leeyong Soo, international fashion coordinator for the Japanese edition of Vogue. "They're also rediscovering how nice old things can be, which is encouraging as Japan is normally such a throwaway culture."

旧式服装永不过时--日本重掀和服热

  诠释着大和民族文化的和服曾一度被认为是过时之物而受到日本现代女性的冷遇。然而,时尚之都东京如今又掀起了一股和服热。

  据英国《卫报》5月23日报道,追赶时尚潮流的的日本年轻女性曾认为,只有守旧的妇女才身着造价昂贵且行动不便的和服,和服已经过时了!但在东京,一股和服热又悄然生起。年轻时尚的女性不仅再次迷恋和服,且将和服穿得同牛仔裤一样随意舒适。

  东京表参道一家二手和服店老板说:“如今,时髦的年轻女性认为,和服不再专属于富有的中老年妇女。她们也同样可以穿上和服去约会或出席一些正式的场合,使自己与众不同。”

  在日本,一套崭新和服的价格非常昂贵,通常为数千甚至上万英镑;但在新兴的二手和服市场,不但和服的价格很低廉,精明的商家还将和服配上合适的腰带、鞋和袜子一起出售,吸引了大批学生和年轻女顾客。

  30几岁的美村绘美子是一名药剂师,她拥有40套和服。她说:“我总是喜欢穿着和服去购物或和朋友聚会。”

  随着夏季的来临,质地轻薄、色泽清爽、价格便宜的夏季和服开始成为东京时尚女性的新宠。而众多时尚杂志更是在这一季介绍了许多有关和服与手提包、首饰、凉鞋和太阳镜完美搭配的方法。

  时尚杂志《Vogue》日本版国际时装专栏负责人李永秀说:“我想,女性朋友厌倦了西式服装的千篇一律,她们希望让自己的衣着风格不仅回归传统还要追求舒适。她们正在让旧式的服装穿出新意,这同样也是对传统文化的宣扬。”(文/蒋黎黎)


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