时尚达人：熟男熟女如何打理衣橱(组图)

　　For some people, suits are back. For some people--particularly in the boardrooms and corner offices of the biggest companies--they never went away.

　　对某些人而言，西装又时兴起来了。而对那些在大公司董事会议室和经理办公室里的人们来说，西装从来就没有过时过。

　　The old saw "clothes maketh the man" is as much of a truism as ever. Today, as always, a well-made suit is not just a crucial business accessory; it also sends a subtle message that distinguishes the wearer as a person of discretion, taste and, in many cases, as someone with many zeroes in his annual bonus package.

　　“人靠衣装”这句老话仍然是条真理。今天和从前一样，一套做工考究的西装不仅是商业人士最重要的行头，还能巧妙地表现穿着者的地位和品味，而且在很多时候还能体现其收入的丰厚。

　　What suits don't do to the same extent they once did is reveal the wearer's background. In our sartorially egalitarian age, one doesn't need to be a blue blood or an Ivy grad to occupy the corner office or know the name of the best tailors. The result is that suits have become less a uniform than an expression of individual style. If you're conservative in outlook, the odds are you will dress that way too. Like to be a bit more flashy? Most likely, so are your clothes.

　　然而与以往不太一样的是，西装不再那么明确地显示穿着者的身份背景。在这个穿着上讲求平等的年代，人们不一定要出身名门或毕业于常春藤名校才能入主经理办公室或说得出最好的裁缝的名字。因此，西装更多地成为一种个人风格的体现，而不仅是制服。如果你是个观念保守的人，很可能在穿衣上也保守。想更引人注目吗？很可能你的衣服也会艳丽夺目。

　　What has also changed is the way men buy suits and the occasions to which they wear them. Around the turn of the last century, men of all backgrounds and careers wore ties and a suit pretty much everywhere. These days men are more selective about when and where to dress up or dress down. A board meeting? Wear a suit. A business lunch? Ditto. A corporate retreat in Tahoe? Not if you don't want to look like the hotel manager.

　　人们买西装的方式以及穿西装的场合也都发生了变化。在20世纪末，各行各业的男士差不多在各种场合都穿西装打领带。而如今男士们对何时何地盛装打扮或穿着随便有了更多的考虑。开董事会？穿西装。商务午餐呢？还是西装。要是在塔霍湖参加公司组织的休养呢？如果你不想看上去像那儿的酒店经理，就别穿西装。

　　Suits are also becoming hip. Design houses like Gucci, Prada, Yves Saint-Laurent and others are coming out with suits that are definitely more appropriate for nightclubs than the boardroom. The idea is to appeal to younger customers who rebel at the thought of wearing a necktie, let alone a day job, but still have the money to spend on a $1,500 suit.

　　西装本身也越做越时髦了。像古琦、普拉达和圣罗兰以及其他一些服装设计公司推出的西装绝对更适合去夜总会而非进会议室的时候穿。这样做无非是想吸引较为年轻的顾客，这些人是谈领带色变，更别提要他们一整天都打着领带了，但他们却买得起1,500美元一套的西装。