◆Text and photos by BRUCE CONNOLLY

　　Last month I wrote about the happiness I discovered visiting a farming community near the small southern Guangdong city of Taishan.

　　This month we will visit the charming, fascinating city with its unique accent, Taishanhua, which is quite incomprehensible to Putonghua speakers. Most of its overseas visitors are returning relatives ("huaqiao") so frequently I was the only foreign face! However, everywhere I received warm, welcoming smiles, plenty of help and lots of curiosity!

　　On the map, Taishan appears quite large. In fact, like most Chinese cities it is made up of rural and urban districts. The countryside areas provide food and raw materials for the city, which in turn provides services such as higher education and administration for the entire county. The urban area is steadily growing as an increasingly many younger people migrate in from the countryside - a trend seen nationally.

　　Taishan reflects other changes today in China. When I first went there in 1993 it was over five hours from Guangzhou on narrow roads passing through every town and village. Today, modern air-conditioned coaches travelling effortlessly along the Zhanjiang Expressway do the journey in ninety minutes. The city's former isolation is now even farther reduced by the growing network of superhighways in the Pearl River Delta that allow direct bus connections with Hong Kong and Macao.

　　Protected from the South China Sea

　　The city sits in a wide, pleasant valley surrounded by slopes covered with tea plantations. Some aged pagodas add character to the immediate skyline. Beyond rise the scenic coastal mountain ranges, which protect Taishan from the worst effects of summer typhoons. A navigable river flows up to the nearby Tan Jiang River, part of a vast network of waterways opening onto the South China Sea.

　　Although much of the city is modern, or being rebuilt, the inner city containing remnants of the original Old Town still retains much traditional charm. Located next to the river its maze of busy narrow streets are lined with yellow painted two or three storey buildings built out over the pavements. A feature of Delta towns, this design is to protect pedestrians against heavy summer rains or the piercing sun. Over time these sheltered locations have become commercial areas. Typically many shops are simply walk-in with no permanent windows or doors. Trading also occurs on the pavements where older men often sit playing cards. Farmers carrying baskets of fresh vegetables or live chickens crowd into these areas as they head to the large central indoor market. Busy every morning with shoppers loudly bargaining it is a reminder of daily life in a small town. So too are the youngsters in red tracksuits walking to school.

　　Foreign architectural influence

　　Looking at the older architecture of Taishan I am convinced of an unconscious blend of South European and Chinese styles, possibly due to Portuguese influence from Macao or even Overseas Chinese connections? A smart shopping centre filled with boutiques even has the Portuguese-sounding name "Centro Commercial"! Some buildings illustrate what resemble Arab or Middle Eastern features, particularly in window design - a reminder of the city's proximity to the Maritime Silk Road. Even the former bus station could have been found in a Mediterranean country.

　　Taishan is expanding and the newer parts of the city now resemble other Guangdong towns. High-rise buildings fronted in white tiles and blue reflective glass are contemporary in design. Reflecting the area's growing economy new zones of apartment blocks, industrial units and wide highways have appeared on the edge of the city. A tall and efficient bus terminal has also been constructed north of the old town centre.

　　Brand-name shops illustrate various aspects of change within the country's society. Children's toy stores with cuddly teddy bears and comic book characters are now common. Excellent cake shops sit alongside the usual profusion of audio-cassette, DVD and electrical equipment stores. Good quality bedroom and living room furniture is displayed in recently opened department stores while outside on the street motorcycles are replacing bicycles as the individual form of transport.

　　Growing affluence among young people is evident. Following national trends weddings are increasingly expensive and several photographic establishments offer young couples the opportunity to pose in full ceremonial dress. Large black cars decorated with flowers and fanciful tiered cakes, just as in the west, form part of the ceremonial scene.

　　Overseas connections

　　A feature of Taishan is the number of good hotels found in such a relatively small city. An elaborate complex complete with rooftop swimming pool now rises above the site of the former bus station. Older hotels have also undergone extensive renovation. Several gold stores have opened near them. This is a reflection of its overseas or "huaqiao" population who return particularly during the annual Qing Ming Festival in April.

　　In the last century many of Taishan's sons and some daughters went overseas, mainly to America in the search of economic gain. Some became affluent and, indeed, rich. It is not without significance that one of the city's top dining establishments is named "Rich Man Restaurant". Thankfully, there are many pleasant less-expensive places to dine, although reflecting modern trends, fast food outlets are increasingly popular!

　　The wealthy "huaqiao" continue to assist local development such as providing a fine arts centre and various other educational buildings. Their efforts are recorded in the city's modern museum. Its ground floor was taken up with a large display about Deng Xiaoping, and his famous visit to Guangdong in 1992, where he praised the province's economic achievements. Photographs also show Taishan at the beginning of the 20th century, including shots of a former railway line to Guangzhou destroyed during the Anti-Japanese War. Other illustrations suggested the grave of Portuguese Jesuit missionary Francis Xavier is on nearby Shangchuan Island.

　　Top "key" and vocational schools

　　Taishan Yi Zhong (No. 1 Middle School) has benefited considerably from overseas donations. It has virtually rebuilt itself and now has a modern campus of bright, well-equipped teaching, administration, recreational and residential buildings complimenting the dignified original building dating back to the early 20th century. Tall palm trees add beauty to the grounds. Sport plays an important role in the development of the students and the playing fields and running tracks are usually crowded with youngsters intensively training. A large indoor swimming pool dates from the mid 90's.

　　I have frequently visited this "Key" school and have always been impressed by its academic atmosphere. "Key Schools" are the top county schools. They take in bright boys and girls with the idea of encouraging most (often well over 90%) into higher education. Most go on to university, locally either in nearby Jiangmen or Guangzhou, while some even go to Beijing.

　　I visited several classrooms and after the usual boisterous welcome, I was frequently invited to talk with the students - trying out my Chinese to see if I could be understood! Thankfully their ability in English was excellent and they appeared to have a wide level of general knowledge. Often I was asked about my travels in China and whether I liked Taishan! They were very interested in Beijing - to visit the capital is a hope that many are increasingly realising.

　　The school also has an adult educational programme with several classes learning English - a reflection of the city's overseas connections with many students planning to join relatives in North America.

　　Nearby is a modern vocational school of about 270 students. Its campus occupied delightful gardens beside a small lake. Donated by an Overseas Chinese from Hong Kong, it concentrates on training youngsters from the county in office skills and computing. I was impressed by their enthusiasm, good manners and ability in English.

　　Kindergartens, a beautiful arts centre and a "television" university, which features "remote teaching" through video links, have again all benefited from Taishan's overseas citizens.

　　Relaxing by the lake

　　Partly surrounded by forested hills, Donghu Lake Park is the focal point of the town. Coffee shops, excellent restaurants, karaoke, amusement arcades and night markets crowd around its banks. Traditional style palm tree or bamboo-shaded walkways with marble bridges are places where the elderly sit at stone tables playing chess or cards. On the water children sail in boats decorated as fairy tale characters. At sunrise and sunset the park is crowded with people doing exercises or aerobics to music drifting from portable cassette players.

　　Many evenings I cycled through the city's older streets to a traditional looking teahouse sitting on stilts above the lake. It was a delightful and relaxing location to renew acquaintance with old friends while eating large quantities of fried noodles washed down with copious cups of Oolong tea. I felt so lucky being "adopted" into this local community. Life seemed so peaceful. Here there was real friendship and happiness. Taishan always seemed like the ideal place to relax. After all it was China, but not the bustling cities and its heady sub-tropical atmosphere had an almost sedative effect on me. Many times I felt I never wanted to leave.