There is nothing more exciting than a marketplace, for it is a cultural window on the world, changing with the lo-cation and the weather. A friend of mine raved about the market in Kashgar; another about the bazaars of Marrakech, and I had shoved my way once through London's Camden Town.

　　Having lived most of my life in small towns, to me, a real market usually meant a place to buy fresh produce and seasonal products, and only on certain days of the week. Sure, I'd hear from people who'd found kitschy treasures in Britain at car-boot sales, or vintage furniture at American antique markets or no bugs, but rare collectables at Canadian flea markets. But, a proper definition of market completely changed for me when I went to Panjiayuan in Beijing.

　　Well known among the locals, it is often overlooked by bargain hunting tourists with time constraints because it is only open on the weekend, and is not on the list of top 10 sights. Living here does have a few advantages. Once learning the pronunciation and getting there was accomplished, I found a few hours of browsing over items on blankets or low stalls, outdid window-shopping any day. Because it is a favourite of the Chinese, for whom the market provides an outlet for items found in attics, the haggling leans to deals that are fair. It fits in my comfort zone and it is a perfect place to people-watch.

　　Over a few visits, I've made several observations which may a bit stretched, but worth mentioning. Firstly, the better the weather, the higher the prices. Based on dealing in winter, in the rain, and in the warm summer sun, the opening offers rose accordingly. Secondly, I'd say from personal experience, that dealing with men is much more fun and more satisfying, than with women who tend to be shrewd, stubborn and smug. I've had male vendors track after me to talk down an unfinished deal or to open a hid den box with more of what I was seeking. After the deal is done, both parties, I believe, should have enjoyed the process and part with smiles.

　　What's your pleasure? For yourself or for a gift? Jade (definitely fake), Tibetan textiles (saves a long trip), brass (from India), petrified walnuts (for finger exercises) statues of all shapes, sizes, and substance; posters, pottery or placemats; china, chopsticks, or chicadas; bracelets, buddhas, boxes or beads. They're all here - aisle after aisle, mostly under roof, covering about 5 acres.

　　China has a reputation for copying or reproducing to perfection, or, if you prefer, faking or making frauds. As a result, anything on display may not be real, but if it's questionable to the browser, then it would be to any admirer, so if you like it, buy it. Amongst the Mao memorabilia, the ubiquitous red books and vanity clocks, there could really be something that belonged to him, but it's doubtful. Watercolours and calligraphy have been created by somebody, and hangings of peonies or happiness symbols are attractive, regardless of whose red seal of authenticity is stamped thereon. Antique tables, cabinets, and chairs are probably reproductions, but if prices are right and they serve the purpose, then use them to complement an eclectic living room. If an incongruity of age is noticeable, like a Ming vase depicting a woman with size 8 feet, the object is a source of satirical conversation.

　　A few artisans work on their wares. Young women labour with fine paintbrushes as they develop a scene inside a glass ball or a snuff bottle. A man carves symbolssintosseals for imprinting names. Two brothers who are photographers of everyday life have displays of endearing black and whites that belie their incredible talent. In February, I saw a paper-cutter snipping a red Spring Festival decoration with his scissors. The fine art of embroidery, especially the Peking knot, is alive and well. At noon, there's a collective slurp as every stall-keeper gulps down a bowl of noodles. If business is slow, it's not uncommon to see merchants curled up for a snooze in the corner of their blanket. By 2 o'clock, the tricycles and carts appear to take everything away until next time when the gates open for brisk trade at Panjiayuan.