Zhouzhuang - A Wonderland Of My Dreams |
http://www.sina.com.cn 2004/02/25 09:35 中国周刊 |
--Zhouzhuang is well known for its beautiful environment and architecture. Like a lotus on the water, the town is surrounded and bisected by rivers. Walking by the waterside, along a road, or over a bridge, the peace of the calm water and clear sky create a harmonious setting. ◆By Wang Jianmin Covering only 0.4 square kilometres, the ancient town of Zhouzhuang is located west of Shanghai and 38 kilometres southeast of downtown Suzhou, in East China's Jiangsu Province. Having heard of the charming and gentle scenery of Zhouzhuang, I have been dreaming many times of strolling in the purity and tranquillity of the scene of "small bridges, flowing water and households". When I stepped into this renowned touring destination "the town in the water and fully surrounded by water", it seemed that I had arrived at paradise on earth. Soon, I felt the tranquillity spread in my heart and the restlessness caused by living in the noisy city for too long die away. The town has stood up well to the ravishes of history, 900 years to be precise, and remains as it was so long ago. The typical style and features of this water town and even its inhabitants' way of life remain unchanged. More than 60 per cent of the current residential houses in the town were built during the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties. Nearly 100 classic courtyards and 60 carved brick archways are dotted around the town. Water town Like a lotus on the water, the town is surrounded by four lakes. Simple streets have been built along the edge of rivers, and houses constructed near water, expressing the special glamour of this water town. Within the town, water lanes serve as roads. Zhouzhuang is like a water nymph standing on a lake. The layout of its water lanes is perfectly arranged so that the town looks like the Chinese character "#", for "a well'. Many stone bridges are built over them, linking up the households on either side of each stream. While making my way through Zhouzhuang, the most striking scene were the stone arch bridges of various styles crossing the water lanes. The town has preserved 14 stone bridges built in the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties. The most famous are known as Twin Bridge, and are situated in the northeast of the town.. The two bridges were first constructed during the reign of Wanli (1573-1619), Ming Dynasty, and were repaired several times later in Qing dynasty. Viewed from the west side of the river, one is a stone arch type and the other a stone beam type. Since they look like an ancient key, Twin Bridge also known as Key Bridge. The square and round openings of the two bridges display distinct architectural styles, strong comparisons, and the unique architectural achievements skilful craftsmen had attained more than 400 years ago. Therefore, the Twin Bridge have become the most famous bridge that incarnate the magnificent charm of the ancient town. Being a world of water, boats have become the chosen means of transport. In Zhouzhuang, boats are not only important for local transportation, but also the only means for visitors to enjoy the purity, simplicity and sincerity of folk customs. In a boat with sculls, you can travel through blue water lanes; listen to women in traditional costumes singing folk songs; and pass through bridges and openings while enjoying the simple folkways leisurely. It seems as if you are in a wonderland. The residential houses of Zhouzhuang, typical of Ming and Qing courtyard architecture, are covered with black tiles, painted white on the outer walls and decorated with wooden latticework windows. Rows upon rows of courtyards are crowded along the two sides of water lanes, telling tales of years gone by. Travelling around the streets and lanes and strolling along the slate roads always is an enchanting experience for visitors, so much so that it's easy to forget about going back home. Those residential houses and slate roads seem to show the visitors the past prosperity of the ancient town. Delicious food Zhouzhuang has been boasting fertile land, abundant resources, and delicious food since ancient times. It would be a pity not to have tasted the local food while visiting there. The top-grade dish of Zhouzhuang is Pottage of Water Shields and Perch. The local perch there has always been praised for its tender meat, freshness and absence of small bones. Water shields are aquatic vegetables that grow in the riverways of this water town. It is a perfect match to cook perch with the fresh leaves and stems of the water shields. In addition, this local dish enjoys the reputation as one of the three most famous dishes south of the Yangtze River. "Pig's Thigh of Wansan" is another superior delicacy to treat guests in Zhouzhuang. Shen Wansan, a renowned rich man south of the Yangtze River, had used a pig's thigh as an indispensable dish to treat distinguished guests at his banquets, thus earning the dish its current name. The well-chosen pig's thigh with specially-made flavourings is cooked or steamed with water in a terrine for 24 hours. Thigh of Wansan Pig is soft and easy to chew, saline and sweet, catering to all tastes, delicious but not greasy. The Ginger Sauce River Snail, Three-Flavoured Meatballs are also to the very liking of visitors. Granny's Tea When visitors come to Zhouzhuang, they may notice some elderly women gathering together to drink tea. However, few people know the true story behind tea-drinking and tea-making in this town. All the people in the town are fond of tea, but they are fastidious about their tea-making methods. For instance, tea sets must be old, water is required to be boiled in a pottery jar and the fuel should be either bamboo or tea tree branches. The correct way of making tea is like this: put some tea leaves in a teapot or cup, pour a little hot water, wait a few minutes, and then infuse boiling water to make the tea. When people sample tea, they often as drink and eat melon seeds, tender boiled beans, candied fruits and pastries among other delicacies. Tea made in this fashion is called "Granny's tea". The long history of the folkways and folk customs makes Zhouzhuang a famous scenic spot worthy of its reputation. Millions of visitors from home and abroad visit the town each year. Zhouzhuang is shining brightly south of the Yangtze River with its surrounding water, calmness and tranquillity, and its profound cultural heritage. |
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