◆By TRICIA CARSWELL

　　The last time I had seen my friend, Carolyn, was in 1982. Her husband, a church minister, had been transferred out of our small town and two moves later for both of us, we caught up with their family in the province of Saskatchewan, Canada. After that, we moved eight times; they divorced and Carolyn moved eight times as well. Then, 21 years later, through the miracle of television, we recognised her on a broadcast about year-round schooling. We tracked her down and had an emotional reunion. Her course in life had brought her to the top of her profession as a world-wide academic consultant in education, and we had been in China for a year. Now, one month later, as if time had never passed, she was on the end of the phone with great news. "Pat (as I'm sometimes known)," she enthused, "I'm travelling to Beijing to do some consulting. I can squeeze in five days, but only five days, to see China! What do you suggest?"

　　In a former life, I was a travel agent, and my knowledge and experience within this vast Middle Kingdom was growing, so I took on the challenge of creating an itinerary for her. I'm sure that Carolyn is representative of the personality possessed by many Westerners who come to China for business or career purposes. Independent and curious, spirited and spiritual, optimistic and extroverted, she is full of vim, vigour, and vitality. Fit and full of the joys of spring, year-round, she's a traveller, not a tourist. Not for her, the escorted bus tour or slow, four star cruise down the Yangtze. It was an occasion for me to use my guanxi (relations) and capitalise on our like-minded attitude to being in a foreign country.

　　My first recommendation for anyone like Carolyn flying to China under such short-term circumstances is to try to get an airline ticket that allows arrival and departure through two different airports. For example, arrive in Beijing and depart from Shanghai or Hong Kong, or vice versa. This will save a day or more in travel time by not having to return to the city of arrival. Most people don't leave home without an edition of Rough Guide or Lonely Planet, but some background reading or video-viewing before taking off may be worthwhile. The movie, The Last Emperor, should be at the top of the list. Wild Swans by Jung Chang is excellent as a woman's perspective. For a novel, Tai Pan by James Clavell is an easy read.

　　After 5,000 years of history, China has over two dozen locations declared as Heritage Sites by UNESCO. That list makes a good jumping off point. Assume that while in the city, during her workdays, Carolyn (or convention delegate) finds time for the mandatory trips to the Imperial Palace and the Temple of Heaven. I would set up a timetable with the following inclusions and options. Of course, there is more to see at each stop, but "time is of the essence." Assume that Carolyn has arrived with a high limit credit card!

　　On the first evening in Beijing, before this odyssey begins, there could be three possibilities, depending on mood or interest. Choose carefully.

　　a) If there is an orchestral performance, particularly featuring the erhu or dance, perhaps at the Poly Plaza or Twentieth Century, this would be a splendid choice.

　　b) Chinese dinner and entertainment at "Da Zhai Men" which means the main gate of the rich family in ancient times. The address is Building 3, Huixin Beili, Chaoyang District, Beijing, a venue favoured by the Chinese themselves, is Chinese food at its best. The highlight of the pageant is the character who miraculously changes faces with a series of colourful opera masks.

　　c) a typical Chinese acrobatic show of unbelievable balance and contortions.

　　Day One:

　　Rise early and grab a cab to get to Ritan Park. Take part in a physical workout along with the exercisers or try the adult "playground" equipment situated on the east side. The garden atmosphere, landscaping and ponds, architectural features and artwork are similar to those at the Summer Palace, even to a marble boat, albeit on a smaller scale but with peace and ambience and fewer crowds.

　　Just before 9 am, make the short walk to Silk Alley for a quick browse. If inclined, pick up at least one Chinese mandarin jacket or, if slim, a qipao. Multi-coloured globes, though a bit tacky, make a souvenir or gift that will be a conversation starter in anyone's den or living room.

　　I would have pre-arranged with Huilin Sun (huilin@bjhikers.com) for a hike, as a pair or with others, to go to a non-touristy, non-commercial section of the Great Wall and an old guards' village for a day of real history. Huilin would bring lunch and her own bundle of questions for great conversation and cultural exchange of views.

　　Timing for this day pays off when returning to the city, as the next step is to catch the late afternoon train with sleeper berth for the overnight trip to Xi'an. Be sure to bring along snacks, bottled water, and toiletries as there is hardly any service to speak of on board.

　　Day Two:

　　The train arrives around 6 am. Again, arrangements should be made ahead of time for a pick-up at the station by a guide hired for the day. The advantage of a personal escort is primarily to get a first-hand account, without distractions, of the city's rise to fame, its connection with emperors, and the Silk Road. With an early start to beat the crowds, go first to the pavilion for a fascinating look at the Terra Cotta Warriors that are under restoration from their underground entombment.

　　If your garden at home lends itself to unique features, consider having a warrior replica sent back. Remember that in a different, sheltered environment, it would be an awesome addition, or a potential target for a Halloween prank.

　　Skip the numerous other tombs in the district; instead, make a second stop at the Huaqing pool, the source of an unlikely, ill-fated love story between an emperor and one of his son's concubines. This spot is very pleasant and another fine example of Chinese ingenuity and manpower from the past. It's an unusual place to sit, and for some reason, people-watch, as modern Chinese enjoy themselves at leisure.

　　Back in town, end the tour with a close-up look at the Small Goose Pagoda. It's possible here to witness the flavour of Buddhism as there may be worshippers chanting their prayers and burning incense. Close the day with a tasty banquet and cultural entertainment highlighting the Tang Dynasty (618-907). The preceding show is a nicely choreographed and costumed series of music, dance, and movement from the tenth century. The highlight of your dining experience should be the dozens of flavours and shapes of the dumpling accompanied by a welcoming flow of Chinese tea. Come hungry.

　　Day Three:

　　Catch the earliest flight the next morning out of Xi'an to Guilin. I would make a booking through Andy Pan in Yangshuo for an airport pick-up to this backpackers' gathering place in the heart of karst country. Here, in majestic display, are the bumps and humps of terrain and calm waters that epitomise Chinese scroll paintings, travel posters and visions of Shangri La.

　　On arrival, Andy will whisk you off by motorcycle and sidecar into the beautiful paradisical countryside over the dried mud, potholed byways. In this area, time has stood still, where indigenous ethnic groups lead a life that has changed little in two centuries. Primarily agricultural, water buffalo and cultivated rice paddies dominate the flat areas of the landscape. Andy will stop at appropriate詐icture corners' and lend insight into his cunning mind that personifies a new generation who wishes to embrace capitalism, use technology, learn (Crazy Jimmy's) English and exploit tourism. It is easy to be entranced by the beauty and lose one's perspective on reality, even if just for a few brief moments. Andy will offer a cave trip, a dip in a mud bath, a climb to Moon Mountain or a stroll through a tiny village: choices which are each special.

　　The warm afternoon is perfect for a visit to the coolness of the Li River and a drift on a rattletrap of a vessel, inches above the water. This is more exciting than the task-oriented boat out of Guilin. Browsing the main drag for batik, savouring food (banana pancakes) and beer in a bevy of international restaurants, and strolling by the river, make for an idyllic evening before bedding down. There is almost a guarantee that something memorable is going to happen in or around Yangshuo.

　　Day Four:

　　While en route by taxi to the airport, take advantage of the cushiony ride, for the flights from Guilin to Kunming and on to Lijiang could be interesting. Kunming airport and staff, for all its newness and modernity, does not function very well at all, let alone in English.

　　OK, so the plane has made it to Lijiang, one of the candidates up for consideration for the officially designated Shangri La, but not selected. Lying on the edge of the Tibetan plateau, the source of the Yangtze River is nearby, passing through the picturesque canyon of Tiger Leaping Gorge.

　　This area is so magnificent that an overnight stay is called for, in order to fully appreciate Mother Nature in the crisp, clear air and the lifestyle of those who live here. Once more, hiring a taxi is the way to go, but it will be difficult to find an English-speaking driver. It is a circuitous, hairpin route to the Gorge with a panoramic view at each turn, whether it be an agricultural landscape or another sight at the dominant Dragon Snow Mountain - the location of an annual summer music festival. Lijiang itself is fascinating because many inhabitants still wear the traditional Naxi costume, the old town remains traffic-free, and the buildings look as if they've just been built, although hundreds of years old in many cases. On the perimeter of the new town lies the market place, maintaining still the characteristics of an ancient gathering place for the trade of fruit, vegetables, fish, domestic creatures, clothing and crafts. A few miles out, efforts are being made to interpret the mystery of the Dongba, a combination of religion, language and custom. The question that persists in Lijiang is how to maintain the quaint, historical aspects of the town, given the hoards of tourists nowadays descending on the place.

　　Day Five:

　　It behoves a visitor to this area of Yunnan to stay long enough to have no regrets about leaving, but - realistically - Carolyn must get home to the daily grind. Fortunately, she can stay a few hours longer before leaving for Shanghai in the early afternoon.

　　Once in the most cosmopolitan of China's cities, my suggestion is to take herself across to the futuristic symbol of Pudong and descend to the basement. In keeping with Shanghai's nefarious past, someone has had the ambition and temerity to create a museum that reveals the city in all its hedonism, sin and vices. One of the best museums recently established, it captures the essence of China's nineteenth and twentieth century struggles to find its global niche - a real eye-opener.

　　Finally, Carolyn must leave as a happy shopper. Shanghai is not quite the Mecca as Hong Kong, but comes close with offerings of antiques and bargains. For her home, what she really needs is a pair of black lacquered cabinets embossed in gold, with a four panel double-sided screen to match. If she preferred wooden antiques, a Ming sofa table would be nice, or a coffee table centred with a glass-covered carved wood screen. Into the little pockets of her bag, she should stuff some red (macrame) hanging happiness (fu) knots and a mobile of the twelve animals of the Chinese zodiac. Forget the maotai, Carolyn. You wouldn't want memories of China turning into a hangover.