Except when it's in Chengdu! You can say all you want about the thousands of restaurants, ethnic foods and original Chinese takeaways that are scattered throughout the streets, alleys, courtyards and hutongs of Beijing, Shanghai and Hong Kong - you won't convince me. The five star, sophisticated, fine dining establishments with their white linen tablecloths, the well-organised roast duck tourist banquets, the contemporary, minimalist coffee spots, and not even the discerning hotel eateries of imported, skilful chef's cuisine will do it for me. I've had enough jiaozi, chicken-nut combinations, bean curd and tofu, and especially soggy vegetables in a broth that makes them all taste the same. Don't get me wrong. It's not that I haven't tried the exotic baby birds or eel or whole fish dishes or other traditional Chinese foods from stalls or 'holes in the walls.' I have. Just as I've enjoyed the cosmopolitan fare offered up at Italian, German, Thai and cosmopolitan tables. It's just that when I'm really hungry for some good, simple cooking, I yearn for a meal at an unpretentious, non-gourmet bistro in Chengdu, Sichuan province.

　　What surprises me most, is how I ended up eating there in the first place. A very encouraging recommendation came by word of mouth that "High Fly Pizza" was the place to get a bite - if you could find it! Located on the main road that runs parallel to the river, at the time of my first repast, the street was all torn apart and entry was gained on a plank walkway that hovered over trenches of pipes, electrical wires and wood supported manholes. It was a leap of faith to clear the distance that led to the sliding door. The sign was temporarily detached; the lower windows streaked with dried mud and the uppers obscured with layers of clay dust. Did it bother the proprietors to remain open in the din of street repairs? No. Weren't they losing business? No. Everything as usual? Yes.

　　And the usual? A greeting from the girls wearing kerchiefs, who welcomed strangers and friends alike with the broadest smiles and words that imparted appreciation, was enough to fill the space with ambience and happiness. The menu included pizza (of course) delicious as any fresh from a Tuscan wood-oven, savoury soups that stuck to the ribs, salads that varied daily according to imagination or market-availability of fresh ingredients, and appetising entrees that deserve the definition of 'grass roots fusion.' Working from a kitchen about 2 square metres in size, hidden behind a flimsy curtain, the magician back there produced square meals of delightful comfort foods along with light, imaginative courses fit for any weight watcher. From western-style meat loaf, beef stew and home-made bread to chicken strips with lemongrass, or pasta laced with hot, red peppers (a staple ingredient in these parts) and a Caesar salad, different from anywhere else in the world, to be sure, everyone left satisfied. Knowing that I'd be returning the next day, a special carrot-based potage was prepared especially for my tasting and served to me at no charge. It was yummy. I was clearly impressed with such attention. Never burned or undercooked, always the right temperature, the food, to me deserved 10 out of 10 every time. Desserts even? With chocolate sometimes! Jasmine tea? Yes, please. When in town, it was not uncommon to have both lunch and dinner there.

　　There are three seating areas in High Fly Pizza. The first is up front by the door with views to the busy street, peopled with university students on bicycles or kids in school uniforms making their way on foot for a pastry at the nearby bakery. Behind the bar counter is another grouping of solid, wooden tables bathed in sunlight, and a third room offers eating space, with the addition, like a cyber café, of a computer for keeping up with e-mails. All of the Thesaurus choices seem to fit: cosy, intimate, ambient, comfortable, relaxed, snug, homely, restful; grab a book and spend the afternoon - but, be content enough to give up your seat for a newcomer. It's easy to make friends at the High Fly as conversation starts and drifts from table to table. I've met travellers from all over, airline workers, researchers, consultants, backpackers on the loose, and civil servants on assignments. Such meetings turn into an exchange of philosophical ideas, comments on the state of the nation and world at large, recommendations of what to see and where not to go, places to stay, who to call, when to be where. This is a hub of information exchange, covering beaches of Thailand to China's best kept secrets and how to get the best deals on a ticket or 'made to order' antiques.

　　What can I say? If you ever find yourself in Chengdu, you must treat yourself to a hotpot at the night market, but for a welcome treat in a country where you might not be always sure what you've ordered or what you're getting, make a stop at High Fly Pizza. It's located on Binjiang Lu, just east of Renmin Nan Lu, not far from the Jinjiang Hotel. If you can't make it there, that's OK. In Beijing, my favourite restaurant is Very Siam. That's another story.

　　By Tricia Carswell