The Guiyang Mystique |
http://www.sina.com.cn 2005/03/01 18:51 thats China |
Spectacular Waterfalls give Guizhou some of China's best scenery Exploring a city of craggy mountains, thundering waterfalls, and "precious sunshine" Mountainous terrain has kept much of Guizhou Province's early history a mystery. A legend goes that the emperor of the mighty Han dynasty sent an envoy to Yelang, the largest of the many small kingdoms that inhabited the area that was Guizhou. The Yelang king, knowing little to nothing of the Han, asked the envoy, "Which kingdom is larger?" Even today, Guizhou remains off the radar of most tourists to China despite extensive transport links that make traveling to this relatively unspoiled beauty no harder than other destinations in China. Guizhou is home to 48 ethnic minorities out of China's total 56 ethnic groups: The Miao, Dong, Yi, Zhuang, Yao and Buyi all inhabit the land. Ethnic minority festivals fill the year. During these times of celebration, people put on their most colorful clothing and gather for a big party. Many of these festivals are musical affairs featuring an intricate instrument made of many tubes of reeds glued together. Dancing and singing are also predominant, with many of them originating from ancient courtship rituals, the local version of Valentine's Day. The mystique is heightened by the province's misshapen land. With each step, a new vista emerges. Craggy rock formations poke out of the rough earth, rivers are squeezed by narrow mountains and form swift rapids. Despite being agriculturally poor because of the mountainous terrain, it's same mountains that make the province so appealing for the visitor. The rugged landscape is constantly changing: One moment there are expansive mountains that stretch to the clouds then around the next bend are waterfalls splashing down sheer cliffs with rivers that spill into raging rapids past old growth forests and into underground caverns. After a day of exploring, chances are you'll be tired, but the visual spectacle will keep your eyes begging for more. One of China's most spectacular waterfalls can be found in Anshun, a small city not far from the provincial capital, Guiyang. In Chinese, Guiyang means "precious sunshine" and it's an appropriate name for a city that rests 1,071 meters above sea level. The city sits amongst the clouds, hidden amongst jagged karst mountains, misty waterfalls and undulating hills. It may seem like any developing Chinese city, but spend an afternoon exploring the narrow lanes set with large stone steps, upturned eaves at every corner, gray tiles framing weathered wooden doors on aged homes and it becomes clear that Guiyang is a boon for those who seek a city that remains true to its past. The wonderfully large Qianling Park (黔灵公园) immediately captures the visitor's imagination. Once through its main gate, a hypnotic weave of green mountains refuses to release its grip. Old growth trees continue to cast their shadows over clear springs and distorted rocks as they have been doing for thousands of years. More than 1,500 species of trees, flowers and medicinal herbs grow in the mountains. Groups of monkeys and birds perch themselves on swaying branches as visitors climb the Nine Bend Trail (九曲径) to the Hongfu Temple (弘福寺). Built in 1672, the temple is one of Guizhou's most important Buddhist temples. Thousands of images of Buddha can be seen on the cliffs not far from the temple and the peak of Qianling Shan (黔灵山) offers a panoramic view of Guiyang. One unique feature is the Chuiluo Wall (吹螺壁), pocked with small holes. Blowing on the holes creates a sound: Locals claim the louder that sound, the longer you'll live. Fuyu Bridge crosses the Nanming River. On it is Jiaxiu Tower (甲秀楼). A local official built this tower in 1598 to encourage local scholars succeed in the imperial examinations. The three-story tower rises 20 meters high and is decorated with green tiles, red pillars, engraved windows and white stone parapets. A short 17 kilometers from Guiyang is Huaxi Park (花溪公园). Its softly rolling hills, vivid flowers, crystal-clear pools and silent pavilions have made this one of the city's star attractions. The centerpiece of the park is a small clear stream that runs through the park, allowing visitors to indulge in rowing their boats gently down a stream. In Anshun, 90 kilometers from Guiyang, is the Huangguoshu Waterfalls (黄果树瀑布), deservedly called Guizhou's most impressive scenic sight. Only recently discovered, the area features 18 waterfalls, caves, karst mountains and deep pools. This six-kilometer long stretch makes a great day trip and the roaring water can be heard long before actually reaching the falls. Be sure to bring raingear and shoes with good traction as the Huangguoshu Waterfalls can be dangerous when the water flow is heavy. The falls plunge 74 meters into the Rhinoceros Pool (犀牛潭). Standing beside the pool is the Wangshui Pavilion (望水亭), a great place to get an up-close view of the crashing water. The Guanpu Pavilion (观瀑亭) offers a panoramic view of the falls. The 134 meter-long Water-Curtain Cave offers a unique view of the falls from behind. The power of the falls is best viewed during the rainy season when the mist from the cascading water envelopes Huangguoshu Village.
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