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美国登山家登顶14座8000米高峰
http://www.sina.com.cn 2005/05/18 17:14  国际在线

  One of the United States' most accomplished climbers is coming down from the death zone. After Ed Viesturs last week became the first American to climb the world's tallest 14 peaks - all above 26,240 feet - the 45-year-old said he is retiring from high-altitude climbing.

  Viesturs summitted Nepal's 26,540-foot Mount Annapurna on Thursday, his final goal in the 16-year odyssey that has taken him to the world's most spectacular heights.

  "It is a dream come true for me. I have thought about this for so long," Viesturs told The Associated Press in Katmandu after returning safely from the mountain.

  He began his long journey in 1989 by climbing Mount Kanchenjunga, the world's third tallest mountain at 28,200-feet. Since then he has added one peak after another.

  He's climbed the world's tallest mountain — the 29,035-foot Mount Everest — six times. During one Everest climb, in 1996, he encountered the bodies of two climbers who had died just days before.

  The first person to scale all 14 peaks was Italian Reinhold Messner, who completed the task in 1986 at age 42. Viesturs is the 12th.

  "I am retiring from climbing high mountains. It has been great but no more 8,000-meter peaks for me," Viesturs said.

  Viesturs had been thwarted in his attempts to climb Annapurna for years. His first expedition in 2000 was aborted due to bad weather and another in 2002 because of avalanches.

  Annapurna, the 10th highest peak in the world, is prone to avalanches and considered among the most difficult to climb. It was also the first of the highest mountains to be conquered - by French climber Maurice Herzog in 1950.

  "Annapurna was like the thorn on my back, but it is removed," said Viesturs, who is from Bainbridge Island, Wash. "I saved the most difficult for the last."

  The trip to the summit took longer than expected because windy conditions slowed him on the last leg of his journey.

  Like many of his previous climbs elsewhere, the American scaled Annapurna without using bottled oxygen, a typical aid for most climbers at higher altitudes - where the air is thin and breathing can be difficult.

  Viesturs reached the summit Thursday afternoon with the Finnish climber Veikka Gustafsson.

  One of America's leading high altitude mountaineers, Viesturs was on Everest on May 10, 1996, when eight people died in the deadliest single tragedy in the mountain's climbing history, an event chronicled in Jon Krakauer best seller "Into Thin Air."

美国登山家登顶14座8000米高峰

  在征服了14座8000米以上的世界高峰后,45岁的美国顶级登山家埃德·维耶斯图尔斯日前宣布,结束其长达16年的高海拔攀登生涯。

  据美联社5月16日报道,海拔8091的安娜普尔纳峰是维耶斯图尔斯要完成登顶世界14峰的最后一个目标。12日,维耶斯图尔斯与其芬兰的登山伙伴韦卡-古斯塔夫松挑战安娜普尔纳峰成功。事后,维耶斯图尔斯表示:“我的梦想(登顶世界14峰)实现了,对此我已期盼了很久。我将结束登山的职业生涯。攀登高峰是件伟大的事情,但已没有8000米上的高峰再需要我征服。”

  维耶斯图尔斯是成功登顶世界14座峰的第12人。1986,42岁的意大利登山家莱茵霍尔德-梅斯内首次完成该目标。

  地处喜马拉雅山脉中段尼泊尔境内的世界第10峰——安娜普尔纳,因多发雪崩事故而被认为是世界最难逾越的高峰之一。1950年,法国登山队首次登顶。数年来,维耶斯图尔斯都在为成功登顶安娜普尔纳峰努力着。

  2000年的恶劣天气和2002年雪崩使得他在安娜普尔纳峰前败下阵来。

  维耶斯图尔斯说:“过去,安娜普尔纳峰就像我背上的一根刺,让我很难受。所以我把最大的挑战放在最后。”此次攀登安娜普尔纳峰,维耶斯图尔斯花费的时间比预期的长,这是因为大风气候在最后时刻阻碍了他按计划完成任务。此次的攀登过程中,作为世界顶级的高海拔登山者,维耶斯图尔斯像以往一样没有使用氧气瓶,而这是大部分高峰挑战者的必备工具。

  1989年,维耶斯图尔斯登上了海拔8586米的世界第3峰——干城章嘉。此后,一座座世界“高墙”开始成为他极力逾越的目标。维耶斯图尔斯曾先后6次登顶8848的世界最高峰珠穆朗玛。1996年5月10日,他亲历了人类登山史上最悲惨的珠峰8人遇难事故,并幸存下来。(文/蒋黎黎)


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