全套牛仔装:搭配不当效果如捡破烂(图)

http://www.sina.com.cn   2010年03月30日 14:56   新浪教育

本文选自《清如许》的博客,点击查看博客原文

仔装正重新杀回时尚前沿
仔装正重新杀回时尚前沿

  仔装正重新杀回服装店和时尚杂志。但一些,但一些新设计──从女式牛仔裤袜到男式牛仔内裤,以及男女通用的从头至脚的全套牛仔装──可能会把这股复古风弄得过犹不及。

  《时尚》(Vogue)杂志 2010年2月刊的封面上,好莱坞一线红人杰西卡•贝尔(Jessica Biel)身着拉夫•劳伦(RRL Ralph Lauren)的牛仔背心,外罩Ralph Lauren Collection的牛仔上衣,给杂志添色不少。杜嘉班纳(Dolce & Gabbana)旗下D&G品牌最近发布了一个双页平面广告,模特们坐在酒吧桌旁,从头到脚一身牛仔装扮,身着牛仔裙,手挎牛仔手袋。

  牛仔风开始刮向千家万户,进入梅西百货(Macy's)和萨克斯第五大道精品百货店 (Saks Fifth Avenue)这样的大卖场,以及J. Crew和Banana Republic这样的时尚专卖店,后者最近刚推出一个牛仔服装系列,包括牛仔风衣和牛仔衬衫裙等。

  牛仔装的卷土重来可能与目前的经济状况有关:艰难时世流行粗犷衣装。这是坚韧的本色装扮的回归,又是对闪亮丝绸礼服和笔挺西装的一种颠覆。

  西蒙•尼 恩(Simon Kneen)是零售商Gap Inc。旗下Banana Republic公司的创意总监及设计执行副总裁。在公司最近的广告中,模特全是一身的牛仔打扮。尼恩说他的设计灵感有一部分来自于艺术大师贾斯培尔•琼斯(Jasper Johns)画中的靛蓝色彩,还有一部分来自于一种感受,即在经济低迷之际,“天蓝色能给人一种积极乐观的精神,给人一种春天不再遥远的感觉。”

  牛仔的回归也可能意味着设计师和零售商在过去一年里未能引领出新的时尚潮流,推出让消费者感到兴奋的必备新品。“牛仔装是相对安全的选择,因为这种衣服能长期热卖。”时尚专家戴维•沃尔夫(David Wolfe)说道。

  然而,全身牛仔会给人一种什么感觉?如果搭配不当,这种设计看上去像是去露营或是捡破烂的。

  近些年来,人们把全身牛仔打扮戏称为“加拿大式燕尾服”(The Canadian tuxedo),典故来源于2001年一部名为《超级大兵》(Super Troopers)的电影,里头的男主角名叫“牛仔丹”(Denim Dan),老是穿着一身牛仔,模样古里古怪,看上去很不顺眼。小甜甜布兰妮(Britney Spears)和贾斯汀•汀布莱克(Justin Timberlake)出席2001年全美音乐盛典(2001 American Music Awards)时,身着牛仔裙和牛仔西装,结果遭到一片嘘声。

  Banana Republic的尼恩说,全身牛仔装看上去很新鲜,因为很久都没有这种打扮出现了。也许这谈不上什么先锋时尚,但在目前而言,还是一种说得过去的潮流。

  一些消费者持谨慎态度。“这不符合我的审美情趣。”达拉斯一名21岁的医学院学生娜达丽亚•彭(Natalie Pon)说。虽然她很喜欢牛仔裤袜,并考虑买一件牛仔衬衫,但她说,我觉得从头到脚一身牛仔不会好看。

  一些零售商知道,有些牛仔设计确实 超出了消费者的欣赏范畴。

  “我们不建议全身都穿牛仔服装,”美国奢侈品店运营商Saks Inc。旗下的萨克斯第五大道精品百货店女装部负责人珂丽恩•谢林(Colleen Sherin)说,“在现实生活中,女性喜欢把牛仔跟别的衣服搭配着穿,而不是从头穿到脚。”事实上,Saks商店和广告中的人体模特穿的也是混搭风格,比如在连衣裙外头穿上一件牛仔上装。

  在男士服装方面,Gilded Age品牌推出了牛仔内裤系列。虽然Saks男装部的负责人艾瑞克•杰宁斯(Eric Jennings)说这种内裤更时尚一些,但有些消费者也许会不屑一顾,因为觉得牛仔布根本不适合用来做男士内裤。

  在即将推出的一本名为《约会杀手》(Undateable)的书中,作者艾伦•拉克杰顿(Ellen Rakieten)和安•柯尔勒(Anne Coyle)列举了 “绝对会让一个男人变得没有异性缘”的311件事情,其中把穿牛仔内裤列为头条禁令,而全身牛仔名列第18位。

  华盛顿特区一名影像制片人艾瑞克•布鲁厄(Eric Brewe)最近参加一个派对时,上身穿一件暗色牛仔夹克,下身穿一条颜色稍浅的褪色牛仔裤,里头穿一件黑色衬衫,搭配一条格子花呢围巾。不过,就连他也不愿更进一步,同时穿上牛仔衬衫、牛仔夹克和牛仔裤。“那种打扮看上去傻里傻气的,太做作了。” 布鲁厄如是说。

  Denim apparel is making a comeback in shops and fashion magazines. But some of the new designs -- from denim leggings for women and jean shorts for men to head-to-toe denim outfits for both sexes -- risk pushing the revived trend too far。

  Jessica Biel graces the cover of the February issue of Vogue wearing a denim jacket by Ralph Lauren Collection over a RRL Ralph Lauren denim vest. A current two-page print ad from Dolce & Gabbana's D&G line features models in a club setting wearing head-to-toe denim and denim dresses while a denim handbag rests on a table。

  All that denim is starting to reach the public, making its way into department stores like Macy's and Saks Fifth Avenue, as well as J. Crew and Banana Republic, which recently introduced a denim collection that includes trench coats and shirt dresses。

  Part of the renewed interest in denim may have to do with the economy: hard-times chic in hard times. A return to gritty, more down-to-earth wear; a rebellion against flashy silk dresses and banker suits。

  Simon Kneen, creative director and executive vice president of design at Gap Inc.'s Banana Republic, whose current ads feature models wearing head-to-toe denim, says he was inspired in part by the indigos in Jasper Johns's paintings and, amid the economic downturn, 'the wonderful optimistic feeling of blue skies and springtime and feeling really positive and optimistic.'

  The attention on denim may also represent designers' and retailers' inability in the past year to come up with styles or must-have items that consumers can get excited about. 'Denim is a relatively safe choice because it always sells,' says fashion-trend expert David Wolfe。

  But denim-on-denim? Such designs can border on camp or tacky, in the wrong hands。

  In recent years, denim-on-denim ensembles have been derisively referred to as 'The Canadian tuxedo' after a denim-clad character named Denim Dan gets ribbed for his look in the 2001 movie 'Super Troopers.' Britney Spears and Justin Timberlake were pilloried when they showed up in a denim dress and a denim suit to the 2001 American Music Awards。

  Mr. Kneen of Banana Republic says denim on denim looks fresh because it hasn't been around for some time. 'Maybe it's been a fashion no no but it's a fashion OK at the moment.'

  Some consumers are wary. 'That's something that doesn't appeal to me aesthetically,' says Natalie Pon, a 21-year-old medical student in Dallas. While she's a fan of denim leggings and will consider buying denim shirts, 'I think it will be hard even for me to wear denim on denim and come off looking good,' she says。

  Some retailers are cognizant that some designs may be too much for customers。

  'We're not recommending denim on denim,' says Colleen Sherin, women's fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue, a unit of Saks Inc. 'In reality, women will want to mix and match their denim pieces and not wear their denim head to toe.' Instead, Saks will display mannequins and models wearing, say, a denim jacket over a floral dress in its stores and advertising。

  For men, there are denim shorts by Gilded Age. Though Saks' men's fashion director Eric Jennings says these shorts are more contemporary, they still may not pass muster with some who don't think men should ever wear jean shorts。

  In their forthcoming book 'Undateable,' which lists 311 things men do that 'guarantee they won't be dating or having sex,' authors Ellen Rakieten and Anne Coyle rank jean shorts as the number one don't. Wearing denim on denim ranks 18 on their list。

  Eric Brewer, a video producer in Washington, D.C., recently wore a dark denim jacket with a slightly lighter faded pair of jeans, paired with a black shirt, and plaid scarf to a party. Still, even he wouldn't go the next step, putting on a denim shirt with a denim jacket and jeans. 'It can look silly, too contrived,' he says。

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