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日本拉面行情看涨--简单拉面学问大

http://www.sina.com.cn 2004/07/21 11:26  《Speak 2 Me》

  Ramen Rising--There’s nothing simple about this simple bowl of noodles

  “If you’re looking for good ramen, look for a place that’s old, crowded and a little dirty,” advises our guide, as we wander the back streets of Sapporo in search of lunch. “Another rule of thumb is that, if there’s a line outside, it’s probably worth the wait.”

  We finally pick a place, suitably old and crowded, and wait for a table. The tiny restaurant is filled with noise from hungry customers slurping down bowls of steaming hot noodles. We’d heard that making a lot of noise while eating ramen is considered polite, but apparently, we’d heard wrong. “Japanese people love noodles so much that we don’t care if we make noise while we eat,” our guide tells us. “Though some people claim that slurping makes the noodles taste better.”

  Ramen is an obsession in Japan. Fifteen years ago, the owner of Taishoken, a legendary noodle shop in Tokyo, closed his doors following the death of his wife. A month later, the owner returned to the restaurant to find the front door covered with notes from his customers pleading for him to reopen.

  Ramen lovers are also appalled by some of the misconceptions that some people have about their favorite dish. “Lots of foreigners think that cooking ramen is easy,” says one chef. “This is because they’ve been led to believe that ramen and instant noodles are the same thing, but nothing could be further from the truth.”

  These days, ramen are going upscale. Shiodome Ramen, a new shop in Tokyo found its chef through a year-long search for the best ramen chef in Japan. Prices are nearly four times what a bowl or ramen down the street would cost, but there’s no shortage of customers, some of whom line up for an hour or more to get in. But late-comers are out of luck – the chef only makes enough soup for 800 bowls a day and, when he runs out of soup, they close the store.

  “如果你要找好吃的拉面,去找个老旧、拥挤而且有点脏的地方。”一位导游这样建议,当时我们正在札幌的一条偏僻的街道上闲逛找午餐吃。“另一个经验之谈是,如果外面大排长龙,就可能是值得等待的好东西。”

  我们终于挑了个地方,又旧又挤正合适,然后等待桌位空出来。小小的餐厅充满了饥饿的顾客稀里呼噜吞下热面条的嘈杂声,我们听说过吃拉面时发出很多噪音是礼貌的表现,但显然我们听说的并不对。“日本人太喜欢吃面了,所以我们不在乎吃东西时发出的噪音。”我们的导游告诉我们,“虽然有些人宣称稀里呼噜地吃会让面条尝起来味道更好。”

  在日本,所有人都疯狂迷恋拉面。15年前,东京一家传奇面店“大胜轩”的老板,在他太太过世后关门歇业。一个月后,老板回到餐厅,发现大门上贴满了他的顾客留下的纸条,请求他再度开门营业。

  拉面爱好者对于某些人对他们最爱的食物有所误解感到吃惊。“许多外国人认为煮拉面很容易。”一位主厨这样说,“这是因为他们被误导相信,拉面和方便面是同一种东西,但这真的很不正确。”

  目前拉面逐渐开始走向高价位,东京新开张的汐留拉面馆,花了一年时间在日本寻找最好的拉面师傅才找到他们的主厨。他们的价钱几乎是街上一碗拉面的4倍,但是却不乏顾客上门,有些客人为了进到店里,排了一小时甚至更久的队。不过晚到的人可就没那么好运了——主厨一天只做800碗面够用的汤,汤用完的时候,店就打烊了。




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